Pan Chan Paradise: Kunjip Restaurant

I can think of few activities as satisfying as dredging up the crunchy bits of rice at the bottom of the heated stone pot that gobdol bibimbob is served in. But one such activity is feasting on pan chan: the assortment of complimentary cold vegetable dishes one is served at a Korean restaurant. Today, my companion and I enjoyed both activities at Kunjip!

They were very generous with the pan chan, and there was a nice balance of mild and spicy. The milder dishes included garlic zucchini and potato salad, while the spicy ones included green beans in a sweet barbecue sauce, kimchi, and some type of leafy green in red pepper soy sauce.

The edge was now taken off my hunger, but I dove into the appetizer: a squid, scallion and scallop stuffed pancake that managed to be glutinous and crispy at once. Scallion soy sauce was perfect for dipping. I think this was my favorite dish of the meal.

Next came the gobdol bibimbob: stone bowls of rice with various toppings and red pepper paste. My companion ordered the ground beef bowl, while I ordered the vegetarian version. I was a bit disappointed that it didn't come with a raw egg on top, as I love to watch it cook and mix in the yolk. But the waiter noted my evident disappointment and brought me a bowl of steamed egg. It wasn't quite the same, but I appreciated the gesture. My dish did contain an ample amount of zucchini, spinach and shreds of shiitake. (My companion would have preferred more beef.)

But with all of those wonderful pan chan, it's really splitting hairs to complain.

Kunjip Restaurant: 9 West 32nd St., (212) 216-9487.